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Mayotte, l'île aux parfums.

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By Jean-Jacques Segalen (jjacques)
June 29, 2008
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Views: 954

Mayotte Island is part of the Comoros archipelago, a small group of four islands set between Northwestern Madagascar and the coast of Tanzania/Mozambique, at the Northern entry of the Mozambique channel. It belongs to France and has some interesting fauna and flora so let’s explore it together!

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ImageThe Comoros archipelago lies about 1500km from Reunion and 8000km from Paris and is not a well-known area of the world. Some pottery remains attest that it was discovered by Bantu sailors during the seventh century but was conquered much later on by Arabs travellers who set a sultanate there. The Portuguese navigators ran upon the islands in 1503 while roaming along the African coast and were therefore the first ones to map them. The French people took hold of Madagascar and then the Comoros in 1841 when it became a French colony

. After some turmoil the Comoros decided to become independent in 1974 but Mayotte voted to stay French and has the official status of Territorial Colectivity, so not a full Over-sea  Department like Reunion but still part of the republic. The other islands of the Comoros are Grande Comores, Mohéli and Anjouan that have set up the Union des Comores and still claim Mayotte as part of the archipelago.Image

 

 

 

 

Mayotte Island is often referred to as ‘l'île aux parfums' which simply means ‘the perfumes island' because it has had a long history of growing Cananga odorata trees that provide the ylang-ylang, a well-known perfume basis for the perfume industry. It is also called the hippocampus island as the shape reminds of this strange sea creature. Just like Reunion and  the Mascareignes, Mayotte is a volcanic island which can be seen from the various remains of volcanoes towering at 660m high for the Benara Mount, 599 for the Choungui, 572 for the Mtsapere and 477 for the Combani, the Pamandzi lake is set in a former calderas and its green waters are saturated with sulphur. Of course as it is some 7.7 millions years old, volcanic activity has completely stopped while the volcano on Grande Comore is still active and blows ashes and lava every once in a while.Image The island consist of two parts, Grande Terre which is by far the largest part with some 363 square km (roughly 40km by 22) and Petite Terre about 11 square km where the airport is found, so after landing you have to take a barge to travel to Grande Terre. There are also several hundreds of coral islets scattered in the lagoon. The whole island is surrounded by a large coral reef which makes one of the largest coral lagoon in the world, about 1100 square km. Climate is tropical with a yearly average temperature of 23 to 30°C and roughly a dry season from April to September and a rain season from October to March. Last population count numbered to 216 000 inhabitants. People of Mayotte mostly originate from Eastern Africa and speak Shimaore which belongs to the Swahili language, a smaller part of the people speak Shibushi which is a dialect from Madagascar and while French remains the official tongue and will get you by all over the place you may often be confronted to people who completely ignore French. There is also a very important illegal immigration from the other islands of the Comoros as they have a very low economical situation that sometimes turns into social uproars. 98% of inhabitants are Muslims and both Islamic rules and French laws are applied which at times make things rather complicate to settle matters...Mayotte Island is often referred to as ‘l'île aux parfums' which simply means ‘the perfumes island' because it has had a long history of growing Cananga odorata trees that provide the ylang-ylang, a well-known perfume basis for the perfume industry. It is also called the hippocampus island as the shape reminds of this strange sea creature. Just like Reunion and  the Mascareignes, Mayotte is a volcanic island which can be seen from the various remains of volcanoes towering at 660m high for the Benara Mount, 599 for the Choungui, 572 for the Mtsapere and 477 for the Combani, the Pamandzi lake is set in a former calderas and its green waters are saturated with sulphur.Image Of course asImage it is some 7.7 millions years old, volcanic activity has completely stopped while the volcano on Grande Comore is still active and blows ashes and lava every once in a while. The island consist of two parts, Grande Terre which is by far the largest part with some 363 square km (roughly 40km by 22) and Petite Terre about 11 square km where the airport is found, so after landing you have to take a barge to travel to Grande Terre. There are also several hundreds of coral islets scattered in the lagoon. The whole island is surrounded by a large coral reef which makes one of the largest coral lagoon in the world, about 1100 square km. Climate is tropical with a yearly average temperature of 23 to 30°C and roughly a dry season from April to September and a rain season from October to March. Last population count numbered to 216 000 inhabitants. People of Mayotte mostly originate from Eastern Africa and speak Shimaore which belongs to the Swahili language, a smaller part of the people speak Shibushi which is a dialect from Madagascar and while French remains the official tongue and will get you by all over the place you may often be confronted to people who completely ignore French. There is also a very important illegal immigration from the other islands of the Comoros as they have a very low economical situation that sometimes turns into social uproars. 98% of inhabitants are Muslims and both Islamic rules and French laws are applied which at times make things rather complicate to settle matters...

ImageImage

Most of the island has been deforested in the 20th century when sugarcane was the main crop and land was cleared for the fields while the trees were felt to provide sugar plants with energy. Since the decline of sugar cane part of the land has turned into secondary forests but the remaining of primary forests are only found on very steep locations. Plants are a mix of African and Malagasy species with the few odd endemic orchids and shrubs. A very distinctive shape in the South of the island comes from the African baobab, Adansonia digitata, very well suited to the rather arid weather. Those amazing trees which definitely remind of elephants have a very massive trunk and grey bark, they produce large nocturnal flowers pollinated by bats which give birth to large fruits the size of a water melon, with a very hard shell, full of seeds engulfed in a white meat with high C vitamin level. Another gigantic plant is the huge vine Entada rheedii, of the Leguminosae family that can grow stems several hundred meters and produce pods up to two meter long. Commercial crops coImagensist mainly of ylang-ylang as stated above, cloves, coffee, vanilla, cinnamon, manioc and bananas. Bananas are a very important food source, the plantain or cooking bananas being the main crop. Other common species in gardens are papaya, mangoes, orange trees, coconuts, passion fruits and breadfruits. ImageImage

Animal life is quite rich both on land and in the sea. Probably one of the nicest animals is undoubtfully the ‘maki' or Eulemur fulvur mayottensis, a lemur originating from Madagascar and which is now found all over the island. It is a lovely animal the size of a big cat, with brown hair and a black face, a long tail which it uses for balance. They live in groups in the forests and some come to houses to get fruits. They move in trees like monkeys but are void of aggressiveness and always take hold of handed bananas in the most delicate way. The lagoon is very rich with an amazing choice of fishes, from the tiny stripped ones hiding amongst corals to the large mammals, dolphins and whales. Two species of marine turtles are commonly seen feeding close to the shore, Chelonia mydas and Eretrochelys imbricata which can also be spotted at night on the beaches when they come up to lay eggs, a very impressive thing to be seen. Though both species are protected it is not rare that they would be killed by poachers who get an easy supply of fresh meat.Image

Tourism is far from being developed, the island remains away from large aerial routes with planes flying only from Reunion and Paris, hotels are still rare and tourism has not yet polluted the place but for how long?Image


  About Jean-Jacques Segalen  
Jean-Jacques SegalenI am a Parisian born professional horticulturist specialized in tropical seeds producing, set on Reunion island (just between Mauritius and Madagascar) 17 years ago. I spend a lot of time gathering seeds in the wild, the ones I do not grow that is. Also a dedicated Tai-Chi practitioner and tree climber!

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Subject: Tourists


Posted by cyra (from Central Valley, CA) on July 1, 2008 at 1:24 AM:

Pssst, Jean-Jacques?
You cannot write articles like this and not expect tourists to flock to Mayotte....:)

...

Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on July 1, 2008 at 5:31 AM:

Well, let'em flock and enjoy!

...

Subject: Mayotte Island

Posted by NSgarden (from urban Halifax, NS) on June 30, 2008 at 5:42 AM:

I've always been curious about this corner of the planet. Thank you for the stunning pics and lots of information. Cheers, Mimmi

...

Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on June 30, 2008 at 9:02 AM:

It is a small corner but nice. Mayotte is the most civilized of the Comoros as it gets money from France, the other three islands are in a rather desperate state as many parts of Africa...
JJ

...

Subject: Beautiful

Posted by Sharran (from Calvert City, KY) on June 29, 2008 at 2:40 PM:

What a magnificent place, beauty everywhere.
I love the lemurs.

Thanks for a very nice article, and yes, wouldn't it be a great place to visit!

...

Posted by Hyblaean (from Niles, IL) on June 29, 2008 at 3:55 PM:

It's beautiful!!

...

Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on June 30, 2008 at 12:07 AM:

It is still beautiful but very fast growing to conssumption hence pollution so go visit it quickly!
JJ

...

Subject: Fascinating article

Posted by Dea (from Frederick, MD) on June 29, 2008 at 7:59 AM:

Thank you for the tour and all the knowledge - wonderful !

...

Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on June 29, 2008 at 8:34 AM:

Thanks for joining the tour, the more the merrier!
JJ

...

Posted by bluekat76 (from Ijamsville, MD) on June 29, 2008 at 11:54 AM:

Makes me want to plan a trip! How beautiful and unspoiled. Thank you so much for enlightening us to this tiny portion of the world.

-Kim

...

Posted by Kelli (from Los Angeles (Canoga , CA) on June 29, 2008 at 1:43 PM:

That seed pod is amazing!

...

Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on June 29, 2008 at 1:50 PM:

I guess this is the largest seed pod in the world, children often try to sell them on the side of the road and it is actually the only souvenir to be brought back.

...

Posted by carrielamont (from Milton, MA) on June 29, 2008 at 2:11 PM:

Oh, Kim, sign me up for the tour too, please! Fascinating peek at somewhere I will never get to go. Thank you, Jean-Jacques.

...

Subject: Is this lemur specific to this island?

Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on June 29, 2008 at 6:01 AM:

Jean-Jacques. Good morning! Almost like taking a wonderful trip on Sunday morning. I love that little guy at the top of the page. Do they operate at night - or all day long? Are they loners, or do they stay in family groups?

How do they get the ylang-ylang out of the cananga odorata trees?

gloria

...

Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on June 29, 2008 at 7:58 AM:

Hi Gloria
Yes, those little guys are so cute you want to hand around with them...They are not specific to Mayotte, they originate from Madagascar but have been there since man memory. They come around during the day but nap at lunchtime and are more active in the morning and dayfall, they are always in groups, ten to fifteen, with female leaders.
The ylang is obtained by steam distillating the flowers, a huge amount is needed for a few drops.
JJ

...

Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on June 29, 2008 at 8:27 AM:

Ylang ylang is a wonderful scent. thanks for the info on the lemurs.
The look like a race of little people.

...

Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on June 29, 2008 at 8:33 AM:

Yes, and they are the only animals to share fingerprints with humans!

...

Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on June 29, 2008 at 8:40 AM:

Ah. Hah. A lemur FBI!

...

Subject: Interesting

Posted by libellule (from Fountain, FL) on June 29, 2008 at 3:31 AM:

Your article is filled with alot of information.
I enjoyed reading and learning a bit about 'your' island.
Jackie

...

Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on June 29, 2008 at 5:21 AM:

Actually this is not 'my' island as I live on Reunion, on the other side of Madagascar but I flew to Mayotte several times and it is really worth it, the lemurs are just incredible.
JJ

...

Posted by Dutchlady1 (from Naples, FL) on June 29, 2008 at 6:29 AM:

It seems like a beautiful place. I would have loved to be able to see the pictures larger.... especially the view of someone (you?) standing on that rock. YIKES.
Great article.

...

Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on June 29, 2008 at 7:54 AM:

You've got incredible eyes, Dutchlady, yes this is mean on the rock trying to fly away but I finally changed my mind and calmly walk ack down...

...

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