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By Jean-Jacques Segalen (jjacques) August 24, 2008
As I recently travelled to France to meet relatives and friends and spent some time in the Minervois I thought it would appeal to some readers to discover this rather poorly known area of France.
The Minervois is not an administrative region of France but an area in the region of Languedoc-Roussillon, between Narbonne and Carcassonne to the South and the Montagnes Noires (Black Mountains!) to the North, it is set on two different departments, the Hérault and the Aude. So it immediately calls (at least for French people...) to images of vineyards producing tasty reds and rosés, villages with a central place shaded by plane trees, folks speaking with rolling ‘r' like if you were already in Spain and the amazing chirring of cicadas in summer heat. As for many places of France villages still have many old buildings included crumbling castles and roman churches but the historical scars of the crusades and war against the Cathares has left more testimonies here than in some quieter areas like the Loire or Picardie.
Archaeological works discovered remnants of human activity as old as 100.000 years near the town of Bize-Minervois while in Tautavel they were dated 450,000 years, so newcomers are real newcomers here!. In Pépieux can be seen the Dolmen des Fades, an impressive testimony of the society living there 5000 years ago (dolmens are large horizontal stones work, the word comes from the Britton ‘dol' for laying and ‘men' for stone while the erect stones much seen in Brittany are ‘menhir' where ‘hir' means erect). Then time passed and the Romans showed up on their way to conquer Europe, they settled and strongly boosted cereals and vines growing as well as pottery industry (amphora was the usual way to move wine around). Some more time elapsed and the area saw successive waves of visitors such as the barbarians, Visigoths and then the Francs. Still later on Charlemagne helped developing the area and villages grew here and there, usually closely clustered around the church or castle like chicks around hens. Local lords had a rather free way of thinking and behaving and easily accepted the Cathare religion in early XIIth century. This of course soon provoked the setting of a crusade ordered by Pope Innocent III that led to numerous battles and killings. King Saint-Louis could eventually settle in the area and helped to develop it, building more castles and fortified cities to be defended against the nearby Spanish. In 1681 was completed a gigantic work, the Canal Royal du Languedoc, now called ‘Canal du Midi' which links the Mediterranean sea to the Atlantic ocean which allowed for massive commercial activities, not the least being the shipping of wine.
All this historical background explains how rich the area is in terms of old stones, either erect or laying, churches, castles, tiny villages perched on stony peaks and wherever it is possible to grow it, vines. We can also add the fact that food in the South-West of France is well known for its quality and diversity, the most famous ‘cassoulet' has its capital in Carcassonne, geese are largely raised for ‘foie gras' and restaurants are often situated in charming spots.So if you ever head towards Europe some day and hop in France make sure to secure at least a week or two to enjoy a tour of this area which will combine both the intellectual side with visits of castles and museums and the more carnal side with good food and a large enough array of vines to suit all tastes. Then indulge in the local habit of napping before hitting the road again! Gites are also scattered in the whole area and offer a much sought after alternatives to hotels as they are run by local people and often part of the house or at least in the close vicinity. (Here am I, making sure the enemy stays at bay...)
About Jean-Jacques Segalen
I am a Parisian born professional horticulturist specialized in tropical seeds producing, set on Reunion island (just between Mauritius and Madagascar) 17 years ago. I spend a lot of time gathering seeds in the wild, the ones I do not grow that is. Also a dedicated Tai-Chi practitioner and tree climber!
Posted by soive2000 (from Austin, TX) on August 25, 2008 at 8:02 AM:
My father was a tourist guide/chauffeur in Paris when I as a little girl. Seeing this part of France reminded me of the many trips we took to visit such areas. Alas, I left when I was nine years old and do not remember the details. It certainly was wonderful though seeing them and your article reminded my how beautiful France is.
Merci beaucoup,
Anita
...
Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on August 25, 2008 at 11:40 AM:
Merci à toi, Anita! Your email feels real nice, I am so glad I brought some memory, and you also do as I spent some fantastic times in Austin years ago.
Jean-Jacques
...
Subject: Bonjour Jean- Jacques
Posted by Philjarrah (from Outside Brisbane
(Australia)) on August 25, 2008 at 4:01 AM:
We have been lucky to visit the area and climb some of the Cathar castles, There have been some very sad books written about those times. More people should visit the area, it's beautiful and empty. Let's not forget the wine that's very drinkable.
We will return. Vive la France.
A bientot,
Philjarrah.
...
Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on August 25, 2008 at 7:22 AM:
Hi Philjarrah (is there a connection to jarrah tree?)
Indeed, the are went through awful times, like most of Europe in middle age, religious wars seem to be some of the worse...I hope you will get back there, quite a long way from down under!
JJ
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Subject: Minervois
Posted by Hemophobic (from Kannapolis, NC) on August 24, 2008 at 9:08 AM:
Enjoyed your article and photos on this region, Jean-Jacques. Thank you for sharing it with us.
...
Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on August 24, 2008 at 11:14 AM:
I am glad you like it, France is full of wonders and I could write an article a week if I had to travel there more extensively!
...
Posted by Hemophobic (from Kannapolis, NC) on August 24, 2008 at 1:02 PM:
I have not been to France, but I believe that most countries have places of infinite beauty and usually they are not as well known as others. Our country has so many diverse regions and natural wonders that I know I won't even get to see all of them in my lifetime.
Your country is so lovely, and the photos I've seen of it make me want to go there so badly. Read all of Peter Mayle's books some years ago about the region he lives (lived? not sure he's still there) in and I was transported by his descriptions of the area.
Thank you again.
...
Posted by darius (from Marion, VA) on August 24, 2008 at 6:12 PM:
Thank you for the tour! It was particularly interesting because my family came from the Languedoc area although several generations back.
...
Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on August 25, 2008 at 7:25 AM:
Hemophobic, you are dead right, every single country in the world is full of wonders andd yours is so big it certainly has a lot, I spent months in the US but saw only a small part...
I do not know about Peter Mayle, will look up on the Internet.
Darius, Languedoc background? Have you been there? If not you have to!
...
Posted by darius (from Marion, VA) on August 25, 2008 at 9:04 AM:
It would be a fun trip, I'm sure.
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Posted by stormyla (from Norristown, PA) on August 25, 2008 at 10:48 AM:
Thanks for the article Jean-Jacques. It was wonderful. I'd love to tour the french countryside, alas when in France, I can never leave Paris, as there is always more to see and tatse and watch!!!!
...
Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on August 25, 2008 at 11:38 AM:
Ah well, I lived in Paris for...too many years to remember and there sure are things to discover in every corner but the rest of France is just as tasty!
...
Posted by Hemophobic (from Kannapolis, NC) on August 25, 2008 at 1:13 PM:
Especially the Provence region, which is what Peter Mayle wrote about so eloquently.
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Subject: Good Morning Jean-Jacques!
Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on August 24, 2008 at 5:00 AM:
Do you think the gites you describe are like the "bed-and-breakfasts" in the U.S. and England? It is often an extra house or apartment for staying over but the host always serves a breakfast or brunch.
...
Posted by jjacques (from LE TAMPON
(Reunion (French))) on August 24, 2008 at 5:15 AM:
It is not the same, gites are usually booked for a week (saturday to saturday) and there is no breakfast included but you have all cooking facilities with a fully equipped kitchen, check [HYPERLINK@www.b-and-t-world-seeds.com] to have an idea, this is one gite where I stayed.
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Posted by gloria125 (from Greensboro, AL) on August 24, 2008 at 10:50 AM:
Thanks Jean-Jacques
Wow that photo story is almost like a trip to France!
geese are largely raised for ‘foie gras' and restaurants are often situated in charming spots.
(Here am I, making sure the enemy stays at bay...)
